Lifestyle Choices

Toner, Astringents, and clarifying Lotions. All three remove dirt and oil, but some do it more harshly than others. Astringents and clarifying lotions containing alcohol are most efficient for removing greasy buildup from oily and acne-prone skin.

They can be drying and should not be overused. Good toners aren’t drying from normal skin, but sensitive and dry complextions may want to avoid even the milder alcohol-free formulations. Some toners do come specially formulated for sensitive skin and can be useful for cleaning or freshing between cleansings.

Smple cleaning with warm water and a facial cleanser is the important part, but every once in a while it’s also a good idea to treat your face to a little extra. It could be scrub, or toner, or a professional facial. Just ne sure to keep your skin type in mind to avoid overdoing.

Exfoliants.

Although it is the outer limit of our protection against the harsh realities of weather, pollution, and the sun, the bricklike formation of our outer-skin cells can feel scaly and dry. It can also inhibit the absorption of moisture and protective barriers, like moisturizing creams and lotions. It can contribute to the appearance of dull, dead-looking skin. And it can prevent makeup from covering smoothly. What to do? Slough it off.

Scrubs.

Although they vary in consistency, scrubs are usually lotions or creams containing rough particles like sand, pumice, or crushed fruit pits. They tend to combine a soothing moisturizer with the relatively abrasive sandpaper approach to removing dead skin. Exfoliating can cause broken capillaries and irritation in sensitive skin.

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids.

Cleopatra, who was reputed to bathe in a mixture of lemon juice and donkey’s milk, knew all about AHAs. They occur naturally in unripened fruit, but most are manufactured synthetically to mimic natural substances. They include a range of acids, among them glycolic acid (sugar cane), malic acid (apples), tartaric acid (grapes), and citric acid (citrus and molasses). Fruit acids dissolve the intracellular cement —a gluelike substance that holds together the outer layer of skin—allowing for a more rapid exfoliation. In theory, this should result in fresher-looking skin, but the effectiveness of AHAs has recently been disputed by the FDA. You can find them in over-the-counter solutions—typically under 5-percent concentration—but doctors often prescribe solutions between 12- and 15-percent concentration.

Tretinoin.

Used for decades as an acne treatment, prescription formulas of vitamin-A–derived solutions like Retin-A and Renova have been found to have a variety of beneficial effects on sun-damaged, aging skin. On the surface, they exfoliate by dissolving the top layer of skin. But under the surface of the skin, they have been found to increase collagen and elastin production, increase the formation of new blood vessels, restore the epidermis to a thicker, healthier, more evenly pigmented state, and even reverse certain precancerous lesions. The result? Rosier, smoother, less wrinkled skin. Now for the bad news: tretinoin solutions can be irritating to sensitive and dry skin. They should be used sparingly, only where needed, and appliedat least twenty minutes after cleansing, when the skin has dried thoroughly. They should be used in concert with very gentle cleansers and moisturizers, to reduce skin irritation. And because they increase sun sensitivity, you should stay well protected from indirect sunlight and completely out of direct sunlight.

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