Lifestyle Choices

Step 3: Powder

A complete dusting of translucent powder (avoid the eyes) is now necessary to `set’ the foundation so that it will last all day. Never apply powder blusher directly on to a cream foundation because it will not blend in softly; your skin will ‘grab’ it and look blotchy and harsh.

• Choose a translucent powder that is ‘colourless’ or neutral in shade, so that it blends with your skintone.
• Apply powder all over the face with a large, fluffy brush, dusting across the forehead and down over the cheeks, nose and across the mouth, chin and jawline.

Alternatively, press in using a powder puff to set the foundation completely. Oily and combination skins are advised to do this rather than use a brush which may not be as effective for your more moist skin.

Step 4: Blusher

• Blusher enhances your bone structure and gives you a natural healthy glow; that is, if you choose the right shade.
• Powder blushers are longer lasting than cream. But if you find they ‘disappear’ on you, try using a cream blusher after foundation (before powder), then dust with a powder blusher to enhance the colour and your chances of it lasting longer.
• Apply blusher along the base of your cheekbone, from mid-cheek up to your hairline, brushing it on with short, feather strokes and going right up to the hairline. Don’t overload the brush and avoid going too high on the cheekbone or into the middle of your face.

Step 5: Eye Make-up

• Use a dab of eyebase cream to lightly cover your lids and orbital bone before applying any colour. This will help to keep your eye make-up fresh all day, without creasing or running. You also need to use less shadow when it is applied over a base.
• Dust all over the eyelid and orbital bone with a light neutral shade of eyeshadow, like peach, soft pink, lemon or champagne.
• Eyeliner helps define your eyes and make your lashes look thick and rich even if they are actually a bit sparse. Kohl pencils create a softer effect. They are best used only on the outer third of the upper and bottom lids, which helps to ‘widen’ the eyes. Choose a colour which compliments your eyes (consult your Seasonal Palette). Black is too harsh for most eyes and inappropriate in business.
• ‘Set’ the kohl liner by brushing lightly with a powder eyeshadow along the line. A short bristle brush is best to dab powder along the lines of the upper and lower lids. The colour doesn’t have to be the same as the liner; you can create many different effects by experimenting with various colours of powder on top of different kohl pencil liners.
• On the upper lid, work from the eyeliner in upward strokes applying a smoky, rich neutral to the outer third of the lid. Sweep from the outside of the orbital bone inwards. Brown, grey, aubergine, navy or moss green are excellent for adding depth and look polished, not artificial. Avoid bright or pearlised shades for work. Save these for when you want your eyes to sparkle in the evening. Keep colours within your Seasonal Palette.
• Finish with mascara on the top lashes at least. Use netural browns, greys or dark navy. Bright coloured mascara is too distracting and takes attention away from your eyes.

Step 6: Eyebrows

Your eyebrows frame your eyes, the centre of our attention, so make sure they do your eyes justice. Consider the attention you would give to framing a special picture or painting. The same care is needed for your eyebrows.

If they are sparse, fill-in with soft, feathery strokes of a sharp pencil or dot in eyeshadow of a neutral brown or grey — just a shade lighter than your natural brows. Finish by brushing upwards with a clear mascara to give them even more life and texture.

Step 7: The Lips

The tricks for achieving long lasting lipstick are to:

• Apply lipstick over foundation and powder. Choose a colour recommended for your Season.
• Opt for matt lipsticks with strong pigments rather than glossy or very pastel lipsticks.
• Use a lip pencil in a natural shade to outline as well as fill in the lips. Then apply your lipstick over this. Because a pencil is more waxy it lasts longer than lipstick and gives you a colour-base to last all day.
• You can apply lipstick straight from the tube or use a lipbrush. Afterwards blot with a tissue, then reapply lightly.

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