A close Shave, Hair removal for both Women and Men
More than three out of four women shave their underarms, bikini area, and/or legs to remove excess hair, and almost all men shave their beard. The secret of a good shave is closeness with comfort. An understanding of hair growth and a proper shaving technique are important. As a dermatologist, I often see shaving-related problems such as irritation or pseudofolliculitus (pimples).
For men only
Since Alexander the Great first shaved to make it more difficult for his enemies to decapitate him without the leverage of grabbing his beard (another good reason for shaving!), the average man spends approximately 3,350 hours (over 200 16-hour days) of his lifetime removing a total of 27ft (8.4m) of hair weighing over 4lb (1.8kg) from his face. Although this might seem a time-consuming bother, men are quite lucky to have facial hair. Their beard protects their skin, so men have fewer wrinkles. Also, shaving is a great form of exfoliation, helping to smooth the skin’s surface.
Most men experience their most rapid beard growth at the age of about 30. Beard growth varies with the time of day — more rapid during the day than at night. Beard growth is unaffected by shaving or external manipulation.
Shaving essentials
Believe it or not, beard hair, bikini line hair, and women’s leg hair have about the same hardness as copper wire of the same thickness! Fortunately, hair doesn’t stay tough, since exposure to warm water for two to four minutes causes the hair to expand 34 percent in volume, making it softer and easier to cut. (The force required to cut softened hair is reduced by nearly 70 percent.) If beard hair is not properly softened, even a sharp razor blade can be damaged in the first few strokes, and the rest of the shave is uncomfortable and damaging to the skin.
It is essential, therefore, to first wash the area to be shaved with warm, soapy water and to apply shaving cream three minutes before shaving to properly soften and moisten the beard. The shaving cream provides a protective blanket to prevent evaporation of water, keeping the hairs soft during the shave and increasing lubricancy of the skin’s surface so the blade glides smoothly, without irritation. Viscous lotion-like shaving creams provide better moisturization than frothy aerosol foams (which tend to dry more rapidly). Anyone who develops little pustules over shaved areas should use a medicated shaving cream containing, for example, benzoyl peroxide.
For minimal irritation, shaving should be done with the fewest possible light, gentle strokes in the direction of hair growth (though shaving against the growth sometimes gives a closer shave). Women should shave their legs before their bikini area, and men should shave the whiskers on their upper lips and chins last, to assure that these coarser hairs are given maximum time to soften.
A good cutting edge is important. Razors give a closer shave; electric shavers cause less irritation. (To assure a close and safe shave with an electric razor, the skin can be prepared with cream as described above, and then rinsed off prior to shaving.) A great deal of research has been done to design “the perfect razor“. The optimal angle of the blade to the skin is 28 to 30 degrees. Double-bladed razors give a closer shave. When using any razor, rinse and shake off excess water rather than wiping the blade in order to preserve the sharpness.
After-shave products
Designed to minimize “razor burn”, aftershaves are usually fragranced colognes that contain cooling menthol. I recommend the least scented after-shaves because fragrances can be irritating. After‑shaves based on witch-hazel instead of alcohol are less irritating to the skin. Men should apply sunscreen after shaving, since their exfoliated skin is very susceptible to sundamage. Women should not apply a deodorant or antiperspirant directly after shaving under their arms. Non-alcoholic creams or dusting powders can be soothing, especially in the bikini area.
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August 21st, 2008 at 3:19 pm
Interesting. I get razor burn no matter what unless I use Neosporin on the shaved area.
August 21st, 2008 at 4:58 pm
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