How to Prepare Herbs
In making up the simple recipes used in this book there are various methods of preparing herbs for use in lotions and creams. The methods listed below will help you to get started.
Decoction
A decoction of herb usually means the boiling up of the herb, and it is usually prepared by using roots, stems, bark and berries, ie the hard parts of plants. The herb or part of the herb is boiled for about 15 minutes and then allowed to cool. The resulting liquid is drawn off and used and the herb is discarded.
Infusion
When you pour boiling water over a herb (fresh or dried) and leave it to stand for about 15 minutes, this is known as an infusion. The same method is used to make herbal tea, and the strained ‘tea’ is the part used. The herb is discarded.
Cold Infusion
In a cold infusion the herb is allowed to steep in a cold liquid such as vinegar or oil, wine or alcohol. It should be allowed a longer period to stand, and should be placed in a sealed, airtight container.
Essential Oil
Besides their healing properties, essential oils add fragrance to a cream or lotion. With a little extra trouble you can prepare your own oils. Particularly in making cosmetics, natural ingredients will enhance your beauty preparations and are infinitely preferable. The essential oils available commercially are of necessity synthetic. We would never be able to afford the real oil of a flower as several tons of petals go into the making of one cup of true flower oil. This recipe is the next best thing, and it is quick and easy to make.
I always use fresh herbs as their fragrance and active principles are then at their best. If you are unable to obtain fresh herbs, however, dried herbs will do as well. Merely halve the quantities, ie 250 ml (1 cup) fresh to 125 ml (1/2 cup) dried herb.
250 ml (1 cup) fresh chopped herbs
500 ml (2 cups) vegetable oil, eg maize, sunflower or almond oil
12,5 ml (1 tbsp) apple cider vinegar
Pour into a screw-top jar, shake vigorously and place in the sun. Let the oil mature for a week to 10 days. Shake each day. Then strain through cheesecloth or a nylon sieve, using a wooden spoon. Repeat the process, using fresh herbs, until the aroma is strong enough for your liking. Finally strain and pour into dark glass bottles. Date and label the bottles.
Tincture
A tincture is made with medicinal alcohol or, if you cannot get it, cane spirit (available from all bottle-stores). Steep 100 g dried herb (or 200 g fresh herb) in 1 litre (4 cups) alcohol for 2 weeks, in a screw-top jar. Shake daily. Filter before using it, and always keep the bottle tightly sealed.
Water
When water is called for in a recipe, try to use distilled water as hard water can have a harsh effect on your skin. Fresh rainwater is also preferable.
Herb Milk
Milk readily absorbs the oils from herbs and the preparation is easy. Use 250 ml (1 cup) chopped fresh herb to 500 ml (2 cups) milk. Mix well, cove: and stand for about 4 hours. (In midsummer’s heat I keep the mixture in the fridge.) Then strain through a fine sieve, mashing out the juices with a wooden spoon. Rose petals and calendula petals can be used this way and lemon balm, rosemary and lavender leaves are particularly pleasant. The milk can be used for cleansing, tightening the pores and as a soothing sunburn treatment.
Herb Creams
Maceration (Wine)
Both red and white wine can be used, but I find white wine kinder to tender skin. Here you will need 250-500 ml (1-2 cups) fresh herb leaves to 1 litre (4 cups) wine. Dried bark, seeds or berries can also be used, but bruise them first in a pestle and mortar. Leave for 3 days, then strain. A little of this mixture taken internally every now and then can only be good for you, particularly if you have used rosemary, elder berries, or lavender. Used as a cosmetic, it is astringent and toning.
These can be simply made by pounding a quantity of fresh herbs directly into the creams. Lots of pounding and energy is required. Use a pestle and mortar or a liquidiser. Petroleum jelly is a good base or an aqueous cream, available from most pharmacies.
Maceration (Vinegar)
The ideal vinegar for cosmetic purposes is apple cider vinegar as it helps restore the acid mantle your skin so badly needs. It is good for softening rough, flaky skin and soothing itchiness.
Herb vinegar is easy to make. Take a bottle of apple cider vinegar and empty out a little (save it for your bath). Press in as much herb as you can get into the bottle. Place the bottle in the sun. After 3 or 4 days replace the herb with fresh herb. Do this 2 or 4 times, following the same procedure. Finally strain and bottle in a dark glass bottle. Label and date carefully.
Herbs that particularly lend themselves to vinegars are lavender, rosemary, scented geranium, yarrow, lemon verbena, rose (petals), calendula, mint, sage, eucalyptus, bergamot, catmint, lemon thyme, and lemon balm.
Compresses
For some skin cleansing and healing processes, a compress is an ideal way of stimulating circulation to relieve muscular aches and pains. Essentially a compress is merely a face-cloth or towel wrung out in a strong, hot decoction or infusion, and applied to the area, held in place for a time and then repeated as desired. Hot and cold compresses can be alternated. Do not use compresses if you have thread veins on your face, however, and if you have a dry skin massage a little almond oil into it first. Cold compresses soothe puffiness, and reduce large pores, swelling and bruises.
Poultices
Poultices are an effective treatment, directly applied, for stubborn blackheads, boils or spots. Use the actual herb, warmed and softened in boiling water, holding it in place for a few minutes. This can be repeated 2 or 3 times, using fresh herb each time. Geranium leaves, comfrey leaves, yarrow and pawpaw leaves are all excellent.
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